I have to say though that its taken me some time, in all these years in Bombay, to start appreciating Maharashtrian food. This is partly because it doesn't go out of its way to get noticed. Unlike the loud, almmost falshy favours of Gujju food, the dominating presence of north Indian food, the distinctiveness of south Indian or Parsi food, Maharashtrian food is very low key. Its an austere cuisine, using few ingredients, simple, nutritious and cheap. 

Even the outlets that sell it are like that. Even though Bombay is the capital of Maharashtra, places selling Maharashtrian food are low key and don't advertise themselves in any major way. Well, till now. As the city has become more aware of the local cuisine you've had speciality places like Viva Paschim and Konkan Cafe and more all springing up and loudly promoting themselves. 

The food in these places can be good, but for real Maharashtrian food, you need to go to the small places in Dadar, the middle class Maharashtrian heartland, or in pockets in Kalbadevi and a few other areas. With names like Phansikhar's or Tambe Arogya Bhavan, they serve very simple food, not too much of it (don't expect lavish helpings in the Gujju style) on stainless steel plates. But in its very simplicity the food - kothmir wade, sabhudana khichdi, missal, those really wonderful, very dry puran poli's that have to be eaten with milk - is simple great. 

Besan ka pitla is of this style, though perhaps closer to Gujju food than the rest. The use of besan (chickpea flour) is similar to that of gatte-ka-saag in Gujju-Rajasthani food. But its much simpler, its very easy to cook, is made from ingredients that are usually at hand, can be whipped up quickly, offers different textures, and is totally delicious. It can be eaten hot, usually paired with hearty jowar bakhris, but even cold the next day still tastes good. I had a bunch of people drop in unexpectedly the other day, and the only thing I had time to cook was this and they loved it. 

To eat it at its best in Bombay you'd probably have to go to Swati Snacks opposite Bhatia hospital. That recipe is rather different, strongly flavoured with garlic and uses lots of oil. Its wonderful, but I'm not sure how to make it, and this recipe, while second best, is still really good and somewhat healthier, I think. 

Besan ka pithla

Ingredients:
1 cup besan (chickpea flour)
quarter teaspoon haldi (turmeric powder)
salt
water
1 tsp lemon juice
4-5 spring onions, finely chopped
4-5 green chillies, finely chopped
half tsp garlic, finely chopped + half tsp fresh ginger, finely chopped (or cheat and use a big tsp ginger-garlic paste
1 tbsp coriander leaves (cilantro) finely chooped
1 sprig curry leaves
half tsp mint leaves finely chopped (you don't have to be too precise about all these leaves. Just pull out some handfulls and chop them)
half tsp jeera (cumin) seeds
half tsp rai (mustard) seeds
pinch hing (asafoetida)
1 onion finely chooped
1 tomato finely chopped
3-4 tbsp oil

Method:

Make a paste of the besan, haldi, salt, water and lime juice. It shouldn't be too watery. Add the spring onions, chillies, ginger and garlic. Mix well and keep aside. In a deep pan heat the oil, add the seeds and the hing and fry till they sizzle and splutter. Add the leaves and onion and stir fry for 2-3 minutes. Add the tomato and fry for 2 minutes more. Then add the besan and batter and keep cooking, stirring frequently. It'll start solidifying like violently yellow coloured scrambled eggs. Before it gets too dry and starts burnings, take it off the heat. It should have a thick texture, but not be too gluey. And that's it. Eat with rotis, with rice (keep it more liquidy then) or just by itself.

-- Vikram,

Responses:

Pitla is great when water is substituted with equal amount of chhaas or buttermilk. Maharashtrians moved to Madhya Pradesh (many did during the Peshwa period) also make it with milk and that is great, too!

--Shailen
PS: As for Maharashtrian eateries - where else but my home pitch, Shivaji Park? There is 'Aaswad', 'Prakash', 'Dattatreya', 'Madhura' - each serving a house speciality. 'Vinay Health Home' tucked away in Phanaswadi, Girgaum is also very good - and for a unique 'Upwaas Misal' give a try to 'Panshikar' opposite Dadar Railway Station. There is a catch here - there are at least four restaurants by that name - bang opposite Dadar Station, west side is where I mean.


Pithla made with beaten curd becomes Parsee Dhai ni Khudhi - not to be mistaken with the Gujarati Khudhi which is thin and sweet. This Kudhi is eaten with Yellow rice flavoured with star aniseed (badian) and black cardamon.

--shawak hansotia

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